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Leaking Pump - 12/24/2008 5:14:03 AM   
Erunamane

 

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Anyone faced that?

I was happily building my WC system and all was going fine, but when I turned on the Swiftech 655 pump, it started to leak from the space between the plastic ring and the motor. Did I forget to do something to the pump or is this really a problem that's possible?

Kind of sucks to be so close to finish and have this stopping me.

Do you guys know of any way to test the pump for leaks outside of the case, like in the sink?
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RE: Leaking Pump - 12/24/2008 5:25:51 AM   
sgtharry


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I'm pretty sure that ring is threaded. It's what holds the pump together. Try to tighten it by hand. There is an O-ring seal there. You could test it with 2 hoses attached, just don't get the motor wet. Probably the ring is just a little loose.

< Message edited by sgtharry -- 12/24/2008 5:26:12 AM >
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RE: Leaking Pump - 12/24/2008 6:19:11 AM   
l337h4l


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Interesting you would think quality control would have caught that
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RE: Leaking Pump - 12/24/2008 7:48:43 AM   
Shock-The-Monky


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Alot of times these pumps will show up with the ring not fully tightened down. I always make sure it's properly tightened down by first loosening it and then tightening it back down to hand tight then give one last turn to torgue it down. Never had one leak on me yet. (knocks on wood)
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RE: Leaking Pump - 12/24/2008 9:02:08 AM   
ty_ger07


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X2 what Shock said.  This is the exact procedure I use.

You can never assume that components come to you assembled correctly.  I even make sure the heatsink screws on my video card and motherboard are tight after purchase.

I have found one pump so far where the threaded collar was loose on purchase.

Testing your liquid cooling system outside the case is highly recommended.  I think if you read through your watercooling system documentation you will find that in the instructions.  It will say something about not being liable for any harm done to your system due to leaks and that the system should be tested before installing in the case.

To test the system, you will need to hook the pump up to a 12v source.  The easiest 12v source that every computer owner has lying around is their PSU.  Hook the pump up to the PSU and then "jump start" the PSU.

This is how you turn the PSU on without the motherboard:
First, disconnect all wires between the PSU and other computer components so that the PSU will only be powering your 12v pump.  The optimal solution in order to test the pump in your sink would be to remove the PSU from your computer case all together and lay it on your kitchen counter next to the sink.

With the PSU unplugged from the wall and the switch at the rear of the PSU in the off position, locate the black wire towards the center of the 20 or 24 pin motherboard connector.  Next to the black wire, you will find a green wire.  Take a paperclip and bend it into a "U" shape and insert it into the two connectors so that it connects the black and green wire together.  Then, plug the PSU into the wall and turn the switch on the back of the PSU on.  Voila!  Power!

Pics are always good:


< Message edited by ty_ger07 -- 12/25/2008 9:19:19 PM >
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RE: Leaking Pump - 12/24/2008 10:18:44 AM   
Shock-The-Monky


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I went one step further with my testing PSU. I simply cut the main harness down and taped off all the ends then simply hardwired the black and green wire together. Now I have a psu to power my pump 24/7 (if I want to ) and not use any power from my main system PSU.
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RE: Leaking Pump - 12/24/2008 10:46:48 AM   
ty_ger07


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Oh, and check that the screws on your waterblocks are snug as well.

I have heard people say that metal screws going into metal waterblocks should "squeek" twice when properly tightened.

I don't know about the squeek portion, but I make sure they are snug.
Post #: 7
RE: Leaking Pump - 12/24/2008 3:30:03 PM   
Erunamane

 

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Thanks for all the answers guys. When I removed the pump, I did check to tighten it down and I do remember it being a little loose. I haven't had time to test it in action though, but the first time I did lose about 150ml of fluid out of that thing before I realized it was leaking.

Anyway, my problems are not over: I still need to wait till I get some proper fitting for my Thermochill PA 120.2 since those I have are not tight enough even with teflon tape, and the way they're made, I can't put an O-ring in there. Time to go to my local plumber shop.

Bad luck really: everything else that I had doubts might leak didn't.

Good thing is that all my tubing is cut, and I figured all the tricks I needed to be able to put my rad in front of my Antec 900, so it shouldn't take too long to reinstall the whole thing when I fix the different parts. And yeah, it is slightly different than the Antec 1200 case so I'll have my little guide on later, if anyone is interested. This is some sample text

< Message edited by Erunamane -- 12/24/2008 3:35:24 PM >
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RE: Leaking Pump - 12/24/2008 4:20:53 PM   
Shock-The-Monky


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Well, I just fired my new LC system up to check for leaks and so far so good. It took a whole of 15sec for it to prime the pump, move through the vid card block, then through radiator, then to cpu block, then to second radiator, then to res1 down to res2 then back to pump. Looks to be a very clean running setup from what I can tell so far. Will drain tomorrow night when I get home from work (yes I have to work all day Christmas ), then I will install system into case and then load up the coolant and get her going full time.

Course will have to drain again in another month as I plan on moving upto x58 and i7 920 with another 280 so I'll have to change cpu block, and add another vid block to the mix.
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RE: Leaking Pump - 2/1/2009 6:34:46 AM   
ty_ger07


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Hmm... stupid server lost half of my posts....
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RE: Leaking Pump - 2/1/2009 6:36:42 AM   
jaggerwild


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Tighten the pump with yer hand.
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RE: Leaking Pump - 2/1/2009 7:06:02 AM   
ty_ger07


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Yes, this thread was answered a long time ago.

See how it states that there were 10 replies, yet this one here is the third?

I was just pointing out that the server lost all these replies when we lost our BR's.

This thread is marked as a guide thread in the forum guide directory post:
http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.asp?m=237509&mpage=1&key=&#237509

But anyone who clicks it will be met with disapointment.
Post #: 12
RE: Leaking Pump - 2/1/2009 7:44:57 AM   
lehpron

 

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Lol, 2 months after the fact; we;; for the sake of it, since the pump may run off 12v, why not run it off a heavy duty 12v floodlight battery?
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RE: Leaking Pump - 2/1/2009 7:47:31 AM   
ty_ger07


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A valid point lehpron.

Why remove the PSU from your case and jump start it in order to run the pump externally if you have another 12v source lying around.  Good point.
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RE: Leaking Pump - 12/24/2008 5:25:51 AM   
sgtharry


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I'm pretty sure that ring is threaded. It's what holds the pump together. Try to tighten it by hand. There is an O-ring seal there. You could test it with 2 hoses attached, just don't get the motor wet. Probably the ring is just a little loose.

< Message edited by sgtharry -- 12/24/2008 5:26:12 AM >
Post #: 15
RE: Leaking Pump - 12/24/2008 6:19:11 AM   
l337h4l


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Interesting you would think quality control would have caught that
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RE: Leaking Pump - 12/24/2008 7:48:43 AM   
Shock-The-Monky


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Alot of times these pumps will show up with the ring not fully tightened down. I always make sure it's properly tightened down by first loosening it and then tightening it back down to hand tight then give one last turn to torgue it down. Never had one leak on me yet. (knocks on wood)
Post #: 17
RE: Leaking Pump - 12/24/2008 9:02:08 AM   
ty_ger07


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X2 what Shock said.  This is the exact procedure I use.

You can never assume that components come to you assembled correctly.  I even make sure the heatsink screws on my video card and motherboard are tight after purchase.

I have found one pump so far where the threaded collar was loose on purchase.

Testing your liquid cooling system outside the case is highly recommended.  I think if you read through your watercooling system documentation you will find that in the instructions.  It will say something about not being liable for any harm done to your system due to leaks and that the system should be tested before installing in the case.

To test the system, you will need to hook the pump up to a 12v source.  The easiest 12v source that every computer owner has lying around is their PSU.  Hook the pump up to the PSU and then "jump start" the PSU.

This is how you turn the PSU on without the motherboard:
First, disconnect all wires between the PSU and other computer components so that the PSU will only be powering your 12v pump.  The optimal solution in order to test the pump in your sink would be to remove the PSU from your computer case all together and lay it on your kitchen counter next to the sink.

With the PSU unplugged from the wall and the switch at the rear of the PSU in the off position, locate the black wire towards the center of the 20 or 24 pin motherboard connector.  Next to the black wire, you will find a green wire.  Take a paperclip and bend it into a "U" shape and insert it into the two connectors so that it connects the black and green wire together.  Then, plug the PSU into the wall and turn the switch on the back of the PSU on.  Voila!  Power!

Pics are always good:


< Message edited by ty_ger07 -- 12/25/2008 9:19:19 PM >
Post #: 18
RE: Leaking Pump - 12/24/2008 10:18:44 AM   
Shock-The-Monky


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I went one step further with my testing PSU. I simply cut the main harness down and taped off all the ends then simply hardwired the black and green wire together. Now I have a psu to power my pump 24/7 (if I want to ) and not use any power from my main system PSU.
Post #: 19
RE: Leaking Pump - 12/24/2008 10:46:48 AM   
ty_ger07


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Oh, and check that the screws on your waterblocks are snug as well.

I have heard people say that metal screws going into metal waterblocks should "squeek" twice when properly tightened.

I don't know about the squeek portion, but I make sure they are snug.
Post #: 20
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