I agree X-2 is limited however I believe the X-3 has the capacity, cutting speed may be slower but on the cnc I just watch it work.
 
I assume you are saying that Delrin cover should work about the same as copper, and it should be cheaper to produce since raw material cost is significantly lower for Delrin.
 
I don't think Chilled water is necessary, so Delrin should do. 

still waiting for my Delrin topped SR-2 and CPU Blocks from nateman :D

nice... 900 reply posts.  This is one busy thread.
 
The delrin top will also do chilled water.  I have pumped sub zero temps through delrin and it does fine.  There is no physical stress to the part aside from the pressure of the pump which we all know drops significantly as the temps drop. 
 
Yes Delrin is less expensive.  Depends on your needs.  If you want a show piece, then the copper is pure bling.  If you are just cooling the chips, and don't really care what it looks like, then Delrin will be your choice (or acetal, or acetal copolymer, or Polycarbonate, tinted bullet proof glass... etc) 

DraginElite


still waiting for my Delrin topped SR-2 and CPU Blocks from nateman :D

I am thinking I will finally get the chance to start them this weekend.  I will start cutting all the bottoms, so if anyone still wants in... the sooner the better.

Anybody with a watercooled SR-2 needs a set of theese. You won't be disappointed. And your board will thank you as well with lower temps.

nateman_doo

DraginElite


still waiting for my Delrin topped SR-2 and CPU Blocks from nateman :D

I am thinking I will finally get the chance to start them this weekend.  I will start cutting all the bottoms, so if anyone still wants in... the sooner the better.

How much is the SR-2 block with a Delrin top?

I finally plowed through this full thread.  Learned alot, ordered I think two SR-2 WB with clear tops.  But, I am also interested in pursing making some other blocks myself, so I am hoping members on this list can point me to some recommended suppliers.  I have primarily been using Speedy-Metals for metal and US Plastic for plastics, but I have no Idea for o-rings or o-ring material.  I have not used water cooling yet, so I would appreciate some recommended links to getting me started.   I would also appreciate recommendations on fittings, pumps and etc.  
 
I notice that the primary material for Water Blocks on the Market are copper.  I know that it has much better  thermal qualities than Aluminium for 6 X the cost but what are the other down sides of aluminium compared to copper.  I know when I looked at water cooling about 4 years ago that there seemed to be some blocks based on aluminium on the market.  I know I will start with Aluminium for at least prototyping purposes.  In my situation looks are secondary compared to functionality and cost.  I like the idea of clear tops, so I can observe what is happening inside the block.
 
My hobbies are HPC and CNC.

Been a while, but I FINALLY got some cutting in this weekend. 
 

hab@hbahr.org


I finally plowed through this full thread.  Learned alot, ordered I think two SR-2 WB with clear tops.  But, I am also interested in pursing making some other blocks myself, so I am hoping members on this list can point me to some recommended suppliers.  I have primarily been using Speedy-Metals for metal and US Plastic for plastics, but I have no Idea for o-rings or o-ring material.  I have not used water cooling yet, so I would appreciate some recommended links to getting me started.   I would also appreciate recommendations on fittings, pumps and etc.  

I notice that the primary material for Water Blocks on the Market are copper.  I know that it has much better  thermal qualities than Aluminium for 6 X the cost but what are the other down sides of aluminium compared to copper.  I know when I looked at water cooling about 4 years ago that there seemed to be some blocks based on aluminium on the market.  I know I will start with Aluminium for at least prototyping purposes.  In my situation looks are secondary compared to functionality and cost.  I like the idea of clear tops, so I can observe what is happening inside the block.

My hobbies are HPC and CNC.

Aluminum is great as a final prototype because you can do things like tap it, and it won't be much different than copper, but I would first start prototyping the materials like plastics, they are more forgiving if you mess up feeds and speeds (like you put a G00 where a G01 should be and you end up plowing through metal and break your LAST carbide bit on a Friday and your weekend of machining plans are ruined! - hate that)
 
Copper is a much better thermal material for waterblocks.  O-ring material is a Buna-N type and is sold by the foot.  I make them myself.  As for clear tops you really don't see any movement since water is clear (that goes for all waterblocks).  If there was stuff in the water you could see the flow (and take measure to clean it), but once all air has been removed from the water, its just a clear bock. 

hab@hbahr.org


clip

nateman_doo

Aluminum is great as a final prototype because you can do things like tap it, and it won't be much different than copper, but I would first start prototyping the materials like plastics, they are more forgiving if you mess up feeds and speeds (like you put a G00 where a G01 should be and you end up plowing through metal and break your LAST carbide bit on a Friday and your weekend of machining plans are ruined! - hate that)

As a retiree weekends are reserved for extended family, so machining is usually done weekdays, but breaking bits anytime is a downer so I usually keep spares on hand.  I use cam software to generate code and usually avoid directly editing machine code for the above reason.  That makes it easy to change bit properties and let the speeds get adjusted.  I usually use HSS bits for prototyping and after using the cam to adjust the speeds I switch to carbide for production.  I have taken the time to tweek my cam parameters to match with my mills.   Even so things can still go wrong, even when the cutting code is correct.

nateman_doo

Copper is a much better thermal material for waterblocks.  O-ring material is a Buna-N type and is sold by the foot.  I make them myself.  As for clear tops you really don't see any movement since water is clear (that goes for all waterblocks).  If there was stuff in the water you could see the flow (and take measure to clean it), but once all air has been removed from the water, its just a clear bock. 

I read somewhere that mixed bare copper and aluminium in the same loop can cause problems.  
I didn't expect clear water to show much, unless their were foreign materials present but it would be quicker to locate a problem if you can see it.  But since opaque materials do not add function for the tops, I prefer the clear for the times when something may be wrong.
 
I located the O-ring cord and splicing kits etc.  What do you use for bonding? Do you use any special techniques?  What quantity of cord do you usually purchase?
 

mixing metals causes an electrolytic reaction between the 2 materials and if I remember correctly, the aluminum will begin to pit and dissolve away (very... slowly).
 
I tried HSS bits, but they just do NOT work on my machine.  Slow the RMP down to drilling speeds, and go at like 3 ipm and i probably could use HSS, but I use nothing but carbide. 
 
Have you ever milled copper before?  Its very gummy and you will require lots of oil based coolant (The white stuff.  don't use the blue kool mist stuff which works great for aluminum-not copper).
 
I upgraded my X2 circuit board.  Cost under $20, and it made it almost a new machine.  more low end torque, 2000 more rpm.  probably the most profound improvement to be done to an X2 (short of a CNC conversion)  PM me if you want the details.  Really worth it.
 

At it again:

 

Attachment(s)

Attachments are not available: Download requirements not met

which one is mine? :P
 

nateman_doo


At it again:


*points*
 
that one.
 

thanks for clarifying that ... i thought so but wasn't sure ...
 

nateman_doo


*points*

that one.

All the bottoms are cut:
 


 
Unfortunately I will be away on business all of next week and weekend.  I will resume work on the 30th

oooooooooooooooooooooh nice ... those look sweet :D
when you get the tops done you should take a pic of all of them assembled with all the different tops side by side ... now THAT would look insane

Wow, looks like you got a really good order this time around. Lots of work to be done. But looking good so far.

The easy part is cutting them.  The hard part is the finishing.  I will have some Delrin tops cut tonight.  Trying to get as much done as I can before I go away tomorrow. 
 
I have set a suspense date of the 7th of August.  I have to get these done by then because I will be away for the last 2-3 weeks in August.

Nateman...I was given a link to this this thread from an OCN member who knew I was searching for some waterblocks for the Asrock Extreme11 board.  Doesn't look like there are going to be any made from the normal group of vendors.  I'd be very interested in commissioning one from you.  I actually think I could generate a buy from several OCN members if you were willing to tackle this.  I can't PM yet since I just joined, but let me know if you would be willing to discuss it.  
 

Welcome to the forums!

All PM's have been replied too.

Forgot to post this:

 
completed, and unfinished delrin tops. 

Looking good, but not as good as the blocks you made for me. But I may be a little biased on that opinion. And yes I do realize they aren't done yet.

heh... it takes a while from a chunk of raw material to become the block in your hand.  Takes more time to finish them, then to CNC them.

I hope 1 of those Delrins are mine :P unless mine is later due to getting the full set of Mobo AND CPU blocks :D
 

nateman_doo


Forgot to post this:


completed, and unfinished delrin tops. 

Yes sir it is.  The material for the CPU blocks isn't shown, but I have it too.  I will be working like gangbusters to get them all done before the 8th of August.

nateman_doo


Yes sir it is.  The material for the CPU blocks isn't shown, but I have it too.  I will be working like gangbusters to get them all done before the 8th of August.

that would be awesome ... if not I can wait a little longer .. :)

More tops done, pics shortly. 
 
I need the folks in this batch to reach out to me and let me know how you want the finishing. 

I would have preferred to reply via PM but for some weird reason Admin has blocked my PM's.  I think Admin has gone berserk with their sticky's that cover your signature when you try to edit it, and now restricting PM's when you already meet the conditions they state.  
 
In my case I do not want any engraving on the top.  I like to see if something may be wrong on the inside.  Not that I expect anything, its just much easier to eliminate a potential concern. 

shoot me an e-mail if you prefer.  I was thinking sandblasted inner channel, with brushed top.  How does that sound?