SINGLE SLEEVED WIRE GUIDE BY KAMASTER

MDPC-X SINGLE SLEEVED CABLED AT THEIR FINEST :)




 
I received a request from a member of this forum for a guide on how to single (individually) sleeve your power supply or custom made cables with MDPC-X sleeving and heatshrink. This is my technique and it can be done many other ways :) I find this works well and gives good results (all the heatshrink lines up perfectly).

I have used these techniques on my FERMI 2 BUILD!!!

First you are going to need some tools and tools, heres the list:

1. MDPC-X small sleeving
2. MDPC-X Pre-cut heatshrink (15mm long)
3. 18 Gauge Wire ( I used automotive stuff - seems to have a thicker pvc wall than the regular stuff)
4. ATX male and/or female connector pins
5. ATX pin Crimping tool
6. Ruler
7. Masking tape
8. Pliers (that can cut wire)
9. Wire stripper (preferably like the one i have but standard ones are fine)
10. Measuring tape
11. Good pair of scissors (dont use a cheap pair if you want good results $15-40)
12. Lighter
13. Razor blade (see pic)
14. 1/8" (3mm) Aluminum or any other material 1/8" thick) atleast 3" x 5" in dimensions
15. ATX Connectors (8pin EPS, 4pin P4, 6 pin PCI-E, 8 pin PCI-E (or 6+2pin), 24 or 20 Pin ATX Mobo)
16. Flat working area
17. Heat Gun (with low and high setting)
18. ATX Pin remover
19. A LOT OF PATIENCE!!!!!!! and time (when you master it, it becomes very easy)


Here are some pics of the tools I used...




High and low settings (high heat, low heat)

Before I begin, here are the steps.
1. Cut the 18ga wire to your desired size using the razor blade to mark the wire at the end of the ruler and than cut with pliers)
2. Strip 3mm off each end of the 18ga wire peice using the 1/8" alum sheet and razor blade to mark it first than strip the wire at the marking)
3. Crimp atx connector pins to each end of wire
4. Measure the wire + atx pins (together) from end to end (measure in mm)
5. Take the number you get from step 4 and SUBTRACT 32mm from it
6. Take the number you get from step 5 (number from step #4 MINUS 32mm = number for step # 6) (total length - 32mm = desired length for sleeving)
7. Tape down sleeving and mark it using a razor blade
8. Cut the sleeving with scissors at the marking made at step 7
9. Fish the wire through the sleeving until each pin on each end is outside the sleeving (use the compress and pinch technique to prevent pin getting caught on sleeving)
10. Put the 15mm heatshrink peice over the heatshrink (fish it over top of sleeving)
11. Measure 18.5mm from tip of ATX pin to Starting of sleeving using a ruler
12. Position the heatshrink so that it begins at the beginning of the First crimping flaps (from the tip) ( between the 1st and 2nd crimping flaps) and than continues over top the sleeving.
13. Take the heat gun on LOW settings, and apply heat all around evenly, start where heat shrink is at its widest point. Allow the heatshrink to shrink partially, allow it to touch wire but fully shrink (looks like a balloon).
14. Position heatshrink so that it aligns perfectly at the begining of the first crimping flap (from the tip) (between 1st and 2nd flap) see pics
15. Take the heat gun and apply evenly for a quick second at top, than bottom than sides until heatshrink fully shrinks (you will see the outline of the sleeving threw the heatshrink)
16. Take your nails (index and thumb) and pinch the point where the sleeving ends (where you see it go from being thick to thin(than transition point) )
17. Adjust the amount of heatshrink that is after the sleeving, you may have to pinch at the transition point and pull the sleeving slightly to get the desire amount of heatshrink after the sleeving. (this is important because it will allow for easy seating into the connector) ( with experience you will be able to tell by the look of it)
18. Insert wire into connector (make sure the pointy part of the pin is facing the connectors flaps (where it slips into the other connector)
19. Grab the wire at the thickest point (where the wire + sleev + heatshrink are) and push into the connector until you hear two faint clicks.
20. If it does not go in and falls short, pull it out and repeat step # 16 - pinching the transition point and pulling the sleeving slightly.
21. Repeat for other side
22. Repeat for all other wires and watch all the wires line up perfectly.

STEP # 1
1. Cut the 18ga wire to your desired size using the razor blade to mark the wire at the end of the ruler and than cut with pliers)
Tape one side of a ruler to a flat surface so that it does not move during measurement.
Tape the wire to hold it down so it does not move.
The ruler im using is 30mm (12inches). There are two blank spots on each side of the ruler. (beginning of ruler to 0mm  is 4mm long, and from 30mm to end of ruler is 5mm long)
Total length of ruler is 39mm long, and so the wire will be 39mm long (end to end of the ruler)


 
Notice how i positioned the razor blad at the edge of the ruler so that it will cut straight.



Notice the slit the razor made marking the spot where to cut with pliers

STEP # 2
2. Strip 3mm off each end of the 18ga wire peice using the 1/8" alum sheet and razor blade to mark it first than strip the wire at the marking)

Place the 1/8" thick alumnum sheet so that it sits flat on the table. The entire peice may not sit flat, but use the area at which it does sit flat, this is important.
Place the wire pointing down on the desk and having it up against the 1/8" sheet.
Place the razor on the  on the aluminum sheet and make a slit, turn the wire 180° and made a slit on the other side of the wire.
After you do this, line up the wire stripper at the marking and strip 3mm off.
IMPORTANT - make sure the slit is facing you, and the stripper blades are cutting the part where there is no slit. This will make for a clean strip and cut.
If it does not turn out clean, just use the razor blade to clean it up and make it flat.



Notice the slit made by the razor


 
Notice how i am slitting one side with the razor

Notice how i am slitting the other side of the wire with the razor


Make sure the slit is facing you, if you have the wire in there and you dont see a slit, turn the wire 90° until you see the slit. this is important and saves you a lot of work of cleaning up unever cuts.


Exactly 3mm cut off

STEP # 3
3. Crimp atx connector pins to each end of wire

Here are two ways you can do your cables.
A way that the ATX connectors locking flaps are facing inwards towards each other.

As i did with my ATX 24 pin connector cable


OR
A way that the atx connectors locking flaps face you.

As i did with my PCI-E 8pin connector cables



This is important because the ATX PIN Crimping flaps (pictured below) ALWAYS need to face in the SAME direction that the ATX Connector locking flaps face (pictured above).
If you dont follow this than the wires will not go in as you want them to and the cable will need to be twisted to get it to form in the desired direction!!!


For this tutorial, I am using the LOCKING FLAPS FACING INWARDS towards each other, as found on my ATX 24pin mobo connector cable.

STEP # 3 Continued - CRIMPING

Place the ATX pin into the crimping tool, and pull on its tip until you cannot pull it anymore (this makes the crimping flaps butt up against the ridge inside the crimping tool)
Than press down on the handle until you hear ONE CLICK, and stop. This will hold the pin in place.



 
Notice which way the ATX PIN crimping flaps are facing, In my case they are facing down, or inwards towards the other side of the wire (see pic below)




Place the wire into the crimping tool until it cannot go in anymore, I like to look at the other side of the tool to see how far the wire has gone in.
It should go in and be inbetween the 1st crimping flaps (from the tip) (notice the wire (copper looking) in the last pic)

Step # 3 Continued

Here is a pic of me placing the wire inside, The crimping flaps are facing inwards (down) towards the other end of the wire.

Alas, the crimp complete


 
Notice how the crimping flaps are facing inwards towards each other in this next pic


More pics of other atx pins. I used the male ones, (the ones above  in the pic)

Step # 4
4. Measure the wire + atx pins (together) from end to end (measure in mm)
Using a measuring tape, lay it out and have it clip onto an edge or something so that it stays put and doesnt move around.
I start my measurements at 100mm (or 10cm).
The wire + ATX Pins END TO END should measure 326-327mm long
(from 1000 mm to 427mm = 327mm) OR 32.7cm
If you want inches divide by 25.4 mm per inch






KEEP THIS NUMBER IN MIND - IT IS IMPORTANT!!!!!!!
there are 3 numbers to remember, 327mm, 32mm and 18.5mm!!!!!
you will see why

STEP # 5 AND STEP # 6
Take the number you get from step 4 and SUBTRACT 32mm from it
 
327mm - 32mm = 295mm Long
 
STEP # 6
The number you get from STEP# 5 is YOUR SLEEVE LENGTH - (total length tip to tip - 32mm = Desired sleeve length)

295mm is how long the SLEEVE needs to be for this particular wire size.
YOU always subtract 32mm from whatever wire size you have.
So if your wire was 600mm long you would subtract 32mm from that and 568mm is the length of the sleeving you need for that cable!

Step # 7
7. Tape down sleeving and mark it using a razor blade
Using the same concept as when you made a slit in the wire to mark it so u could cut it, do the same for the sleeving.

I start the sleeving at 10mm (1cm)
from 10mm to 300mm is equal to 290mm
There is 5mm of extra overhang on the ruler (from 30cm to the edge of the ruler)
So you take 290 + overhang (5) = 295mm which is the desired length.
your ruler may be different, you may have to adjust accordingly.
Here are the pictures
Run the lighter by the tip of the sleeving. Do it quickly, it does not need to start melting, it just to singe it a little so that it helps prevent fraying. You dont want the sleeving to clump up on the edge by applying excessive heat.
B4 burning the tips of the sleeve


After burning the tip of the sleeve (it almost looks the same)


Lining it up at 10mm (1cm)

Notice the 5mm overhang from 30cm to the edge of the ruler

Marking it with the razor blade

Notice the marking (you need to cut at that marking with good pair of scissors)

STEP # 8
Cut the sleeving with scissors at the marking made at step 7



Finally the cut end, burn this end with a lighter, only very slightly, you dont want to over burn it and loose length. just skim the lighter on it.

STEP # 9
Fish the wire through the sleeving until each pin on each end is outside the sleeving (use the compress and pinch technique to prevent pin getting caught on sleeving)


I will post a video on this technique called compress and pinch
make sure the atx pin doesnt get caught on the sleeping and rip it.

STEP # 10
Put the 15mm heatshrink peice over the heatshrink (fish it over top of sleeving)



The sleeving sits flat, therefore it is wider than it is tall.
When you put the heatshrink on it, the position the heatshrink so that the narrow part of the heatshrink is around the widest part of the sleeve.This will hold the heatshrink in place and it wont move.
 
see the pic below

STEP # 12
Position the heatshrink so that it begins at the beginning of the First crimping flaps (from the tip) ( between the 1st and 2nd crimping flaps) and than continues over top the sleeving.

This is another important part Because this is going to make or break the heatshrink lining up and will decide how high the heatshrink will be from the insertion point of the connector.

Notice how the heatshrink just touches the beginnning of the first crimping flap. The second crimping flap (which crimps onto the pvc wire sheilding) is completely covered by the heatshrink.
The first crimping flap is the smallest flap that crimps right around the bare copper wiring.



 
Because the wiring i used has a thick pvc wall, I decided to go to the BEGINNING OF THE FIRST crimping flap and not to the end of it (closest to the tip)
I did this because when the heatshrink is further into the connector, it is harder to insert it and it typically makes things bend and harder to line up. But it can be done with good success.

STEP # 13
13. Take the heat gun on LOW settings, and apply heat all around evenly, start where heat shrink is at its widest point. Allow the heatshrink to shrink partially, allow it to touch wire but fully shrink (looks like a balloon).

Now heat the heat shrink on LOW HEAT!!!!!!!! 
Just put the heat on for a second, than back off and repeat this until it has shrunk just enough for you to still be able to move the heatshrink around!
Heat the heatshrink part that is wider than the sleeve first, do each side, than move around, this will keep the heatshrink straight.
check out the pics


NOTICE the balloon like shape of the heatshrink, thats what you need to shrink to at first

STEP # 14
14. Position heatshrink so that it aligns perfectly at the begining of the first crimping flap (from the tip) (between 1st and 2nd flap) see pics
Notice the first pic, that is incorrect line up of the heatshrink

NOTICE the second pic, CORRECT LINE UP

STEP # 15
15. Take the heat gun and apply evenly for a quick second at top, than bottom than sides until heatshrink fully shrinks (you will see the outline of the sleeving threw the heatshrink)

Turn the heat gun on HIGH, and heat evenly all over. AGAIN heat for a second, and pull away, and repeat until the heatshrink is fully shrunk.
YOu will be able to see the outline of the sleeving through the heatshrink, thats when you know its fully shrunk.
here are some pics

STEP # 16
16. Take your nails (index and thumb) and pinch the point where the sleeving ends (where you see it go from being thick to thin(than transition point) )
While the heatshrink is still hot, Take your nails and make indents into the heatshrink where the sleeving ends, where it goes from fat to thin (transition point)
What this does, is it helps the wire go into the connector more smoothly and allows you to gauge if the heatshrink is on correctly or if it needs adjustment.
Notice the pic from step 15, the transition point looks smooth (see below)

Now look at it after pinching

STEP # 17
17. Adjust the amount of heatshrink that is after the sleeving, you may have to pinch at the transition point and pull the sleeving slightly to get the desire amount of heatshrink after the sleeving. (this is important because it will allow for easy seating into the connector) ( with experience you will be able to tell by the look of it)

This is important, because if there isnt enough heatshrink after the transition point, that means it will be very hard to FULLY insert the wire into the connector and have it securely lock into place.
What you need to do, is heat the heatshrink up, than pinch with ur nails at the transition point, and SLIGHTLY pull on the sleeving.
What you are doing is pulling the sleeving out, so that more of the wire can go into the connector and securely fasten itself.
After you do some pulling, heat up the heatshrink again, and pinch the transition point with your nails again so that you can gauge the new length.
Repeat until you think its good. (this comes with experience and practice)

STEP # 18 and 19
18. Insert wire into connector (make sure the pointy part of the pin is facing the connectors flaps (where it slips into the other connector)
19. Grab the wire at the thickest point (where the wire + sleev + heatshrink are) and push into the connector until you hear two faint clicks.
 
Bascially insert the wire while grabbing it at the transition point (the thickest part of the wire)
The thickest part of the wire consists of (wire + sleeve + heatshrink)
Grab it firmly and push it in until you hear TWO CLICKS!!!!!
its important that you hear the clicks, because thats saying the wire has secured itself and will not come out

NOTICE how the crimping flaps (and pointy part) of the connector pin are pointing in the same direction as the locking flap of the atx connector.

This is how it should turn out
NO KINKS, no bends, no transition point showing.




CHECK OUT how the wire curves, and where the connectors locking flap is.

STEP # 20, 21 and 22
20. If it does not go in and falls short, pull it out and repeat step # 16 - heating and pinching the transition point and lightly pulling the sleeving slightly out.
21. Repeat for other side
22. Repeat for all other wires and watch all the wires line up perfectly.
here are some pics of stuf i have done






THE END

Thx for this guide it will help me alot.

WOW! Im stunned... Im so glad you made this thread on my request.. A BIG THANK YOU! (I've recommended a BR for you) 
That's what I call a detailed guide, Thanks!  I bookmarked this thread cause Im going to sleeve my PSU hopefully soon. Now I just need the get the proper tools as you suggest.. (heatgun etc).. 

The Bear has spoken: BR for kamaster! 

hething


WOW! Im stunned... Im so glad you made this thread on my request.. A BIG THANK YOU! (I've recommended a BR for you) 
That's what I call a detailed guide, Thanks!  I bookmarked this thread cause Im going to sleeve my PSU hopefully soon. Now I just need the get the proper tools as you suggest.. (heatgun etc).. 

Hey no problem :) I'm glad you like it :) Hopefully i will see some pics of ur awesome job soon :D
Forgive my ignorance, what does BR stand for?
 
Thanks mate

kamaster

hething


WOW! Im stunned... Im so glad you made this thread on my request.. A BIG THANK YOU! (I've recommended a BR for you) 
That's what I call a detailed guide, Thanks!  I bookmarked this thread cause Im going to sleeve my PSU hopefully soon. Now I just need the get the proper tools as you suggest.. (heatgun etc).. 

Hey no problem :) I'm glad you like it :) Hopefully i will see some pics of ur awesome job soon :D
Forgive my ignorance, what does BR stand for?

Thanks mate

BR = Blue Ribbon => gives you 2 EVGA Bucks which can be used in the EVGA STORE. You can see that I got 13 BRs and I hope you'll have your first soon!

This is the most detailed tutorial posted in the EVGA forums for quite some time. BRs awarded. This must have taken hours and hours of work.

rjohnson11


This is the most detailed tutorial posted in the EVGA forums for quite some time. BRs awarded. This must have taken hours and hours of work.

 
Im glad this guide got awarded by BRs.. kamaster really derserves it for this masterpiece of work! 

Thanks you for your very kind words :)
 
More to come from me for sure :)
 
stay tuned :)