I am in the initial stages of putting together my new SR-2. I got the Tuniq Tower 120 Extreme heatsink for it. But the backplate that is attached to the SR-2 is not compatible with the Tuniq Tower. The screws that come with the tower are way too wide to go through the holes on the backplate on the SR-2. The heatsink is supposed to be compatible with the 1366 board, but not when it has another back plate there. I called tech support and the gentleman I spoke to said I needed to get another heatsink, but could not recommend which one to get. So my question is, do I need a new heatsink, or can I do something to make the tuniq tower work.

Does your SR-2 have both sets of back plates with it? There are the big wide ones and then a set of smaller rectangle ones meant for water blocks that should have come with if you bought a new board.

I just ordered a bstock sr-2 and was thinking about getting the Tuniq tower as well. I would love to see some pics when you get it together. Like the other poster mentioned the backplates are interchangeable with a hex bit. I ordered a bstock sr-2 and I'm hoping it comes with the backplates.

If either of you find that you don't have or didn't get the smaller plates let me know. I may have an extra set here. Ill have to check though.

If it is possible to remove the current back plate, would I then use the one sent with the Tuniq tower? And how do you remove the back plate that is attached?

Look thew all the stuff that came with the heatsink, a lot of times they come with more than one set of screws.
should be a set that will screw right into the backplate that is already installed.

I know the issue found one of my 2 boards has one too. A pre attached black back plate that not even standoff screws will fit in but 12/32nd screws do fit. Also it seams to be glued on quite securely. I tried pushing it off pulling it off and stopped for fear of damaging the board. I switched to my other one which didn't have it. So I would be interested if anyone figured out how to remove it too. If OP doesn't get pictures up I'll try to tomorrow.

I used 2 stock intel with heat pipes 1 from a 990x the other from a 980x they screwed right to the already mounted plates of my 3 SR2's I've had.
I've never had the need to remove them, but I'm pretty sure its double sided tape holding them on.

I was trying to attach my Heatkiller3.0's the stock back plate's screw holes are much too small.

Did you get anything figured out on your problem?

There are hex screws on the CPU socket plate. That whole socket plate with the retention bar comes off, make sure you don't bend any pins. The plate around the socket is what is attached to the stock backplates. You have to take that off with a hex screw driver and replace the backplates with another set that should have come with your sr-2. Then you can use your heatsink.

bigbrag


There are hex screws on the CPU socket plate. That whole socket plate with the retention bar comes off, make sure you don't bend any pins. The plate around the socket is what is attached to the stock backplates. You have to take that off with a hex screw driver and replace the backplates with another set that should have come with your sr-2. Then you can use your heatsink.

^this

Now I am in the final stages of the build. I was able to get the backplates off. It really turned out to be an easy thing to do, but I had to go get a screwdriver with multiple heads to have the right size and shape to remove the stock backplates.
I got the Tuniq towers installed. I am becoming not a fan of the Lian Li case I got. I had trouble getting the board back in with the heat sinks on. One of them was near the top of the board and was blocked by the case by maybe a 1/4 inch. So I had to loosen the heatsink and shift it forward a bit to get it past the case. There is also a bar across the middle of the case that I had to remove. In order to fit the SR-2 into the case I had to remove a case fan, which was no big deal, it popped right out. But the board still pushes up into the frame of the case when it is fully installed. In order to put the thumb screws back in to hold the motherboard tray, you have to push the tray in so the motherboard is slightly bending the frame. Hard to describe, but still looks like the case was poorly designed for an HPTX board. Also, it is virtually impossible to hide any power cables for the CPU or the 24 pin maine cable. I am still in the wiring phase of the build. It is frustrating to have cables that are just barely long enough to reach where they need to go, and not have the slack to be able to at least think about hiding them.

Glad you got it figured out. And sorry for the short comings of the case. Hope to hear it's all up and running soon.

I had hoped to finish it yesterday, but got distracted by a 10 mile bike ride and going to 'The Amazing Spiderman', which was only a little amazing. It is close to completion.
After 3 days of working on it, my fear is that I will get it together, push the power button, and nothing will happen.

I'd love to see pics when it's together. I'm guessing you have lian li 2120? I remember reading of others have the same issues as you when installing an sr-2. I chose rosewill Blackhawk ultra for mine, I'm hoping for no trouble. Every case I had in the past gave me troubles with the sr-2 but this new one looks problem free and cheap. Don't forget there is a 12th and 13th optional mounting point under the heatsink next to the pci's under the sr-2 logo. It's great additional support for heavy coolers, you just have to remove the thin aluminum lid off of the little fan to see them. If you flip the board upside down you can see the holes. On of the holes has traces next to it so it should only be used with a plastic standoff like the ones included with the sr2. The other can use a regular screw.

The board is already mounted and in. It is secured around the margins, but not in the middle of the board. The heatsinks are big, but not as heavy as I thought they would be.
I'll post a few pics in the mods rigsarea. It will be an ugly spider web of cables. I should have taken octures before the wiring began and said it was wired and had everyone marvel at my cable management.

rcranfield
 
I should have taken pictures before the wiring began and said it was wired and had everyone marvel at my cable management.

 
, lol. Would have been awesome.
And you can't have worse luck than I did with my SR-2 when booting. First board DOA, second board blew up the v-regs on CPU0 on the third boot. I'll cross my fingers for ya.

HAHAHAHAH It's alive!!!!!
Little problem with the power connector. The pin on the mobo pushes right up against the frame of the case. To get the mobo tray in, you have to force it the last 1/16th of an inch. That puts pressure on the power pin. and caused it to disconnect. So I had to partially pull out the mobi tray, bend the frame to move it back enough to get the pressure off the pin, and that solved the problem. Let's just say, this is not a finesse build.

Some tips:
1)      The inner fan is mounted on a aluminum frame. If you turn around this frame (upside –down) then you’ll gain some more space and the board fits without pushing the power cable.
2)      You can perfectly route the cables via the space behind the mobo. But to do this you’ll need to extend the cables.

rcranfield


HAHAHAHAH It's alive!!!!!
Little problem with the power connector. The pin on the mobo pushes right up against the frame of the case. To get the mobo tray in, you have to force it the last 1/16th of an inch. That puts pressure on the power pin. and caused it to disconnect. So I had to partially pull out the mobi tray, bend the frame to move it back enough to get the pressure off the pin, and that solved the problem. Let's just say, this is not a finesse build.

Glad it's running. And what would a build be without a few bumps in the road?

cakos123


Some tips:
1)      The inner fan is mounted on a aluminum frame. If you turn around this frame (upside –down) then you’ll gain some more space and the board fits without pushing the power cable.
2)      You can perfectly route the cables via the space behind the mobo. But to do this you’ll need to extend the cables.

Of course I had to remove the fan mounted on the aluminum frame for the board to fit, but the frame it is butting p against appears to be riveted in, not screwed in. How do I go about turning it around?

I have 3 Lian Li with removable / reversible inner frames for the inner fan.
The type is 2120.
I'm in the understanding that you also own the 2120, right?
If so then either Lian Li has changed the design or you're overlooking some screws.
 
PS Frame measurements: 16.6 X 22.4 cm.
2 screws on the horizontal plate separating PSU & mobo.
2 screws in the upper drtive bay.
 

I am having the same problem everyone else is having with the CPU backplates. I got a new SR-2 and it came with everything but the extra backplates and th I/O backplate. Can't seem to be able to locate the smaller CPU backplates. I had bought the CoolerMaster V8 and they wont fit. Then bought the CoolerMaster Hyper N520 and they dont fit. So what Im trying to say is if anyone has an extra pair of the smaller CPU backplates I could surely use them. Rookies

rookies13


I am having the same problem everyone else is having with the CPU backplates. I got a new SR-2 and it came with everything but the extra backplates and th I/O backplate. Can't seem to be able to locate the smaller CPU backplates. I had bought the CoolerMaster V8 and they wont fit. Then bought the CoolerMaster Hyper N520 and they dont fit. So what Im trying to say is if anyone has an extra pair of the smaller CPU backplates I could surely use them. Rookies

If you got it new & those things are missing you should contact EVGA support.
They I'm sure will help get you those parts to you at no cost or should.
I seen something to this effect posted not to long ago & EVGA stepped up & got the customer the missing items.
Good luck.