Yeah, but i feel commited to the optimization process at this point. I'll bump the memory voltage and give it a try. Once i've settled on a frequency is it worth going back and turning back on VDroop and the spread spectrum's?

mrzenmaster77

Yeah, but i feel commited to the optimization process at this point. I'll bump the memory voltage and give it a try. Once i've settled on a frequency is it worth going back and turning back on VDroop and the spread spectrum's?

No.  IMHO, when you overclock, you don't want voltage fluctuations.  I wish the Ultra had VDroop control.

Ok so here's what i ended up with, bumping memory voltage still failed Burn.  If you don't mind taking one last glance to make sure there's nothing else i should worry about  i'd appreciate it.
 
Antec Solo Mid Tower Case (and appropriate case fans)
Corsair HX 1000 W PSU
EVGA nVidia 790i SLI mobo (SZ17 BIOS) and 15.58 WHQL
Intel Core 2 Duo E8600 Wolfdale @ 4.05 GHz
Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro CPU Cooler
Corsair DDR3-2000, PC3-16000, 8 Gigs (4x2Gig)
EVGA GeForce GTX 280 1G 512-bit GPU
Running Vista 64bit Home Premium (all updates) 
 
**System **
BIOS Version: SZ17
CPU Freq, MHz:  4.050 GHZ
FSB Reference Clock, MHz: 1800
CPU Multiplier: [9X]
PCle x16-1 & 16-2, MHz: Auto [100]
PCle x16-3, MHz: Auto [100]
SPPc->MCP Ref Clock, MHz: Auto [200]
nForce SPP --> nForce MCP: [5X]
nForce SPP c-- nForce MCP: [5X]

**Spread Spectrum**
CPU Spread Spectrum: [Disabled]
HT Spread Spectrum: [Disabled]
PCle Spread Spectrum(SPP): [Disabled]
PCle Spread Spectrum(MCP): [Disabled]
SATA Spread Spectrum: [Disabled]

**FSB & Memorv Config**
FSB - Memory Clock Mode: [Linked]
FSB - Memory Ratio: [Sync]
FSB (QDR), MHz: [1800]
Actual FSB (QDR), MHz: 1800
x MEM (DDR), MHz: Auto 1800
Actual MEM (DDR), MHz: 1800
P1: [Enabled]
P2: [Enabled]

**Memory Timing Setting**
Memory Timing Setting: [Expert]
tCL (CAS Latency): 9
tRCD: 9
tRP: 9
tRAS: 24
Command Per Clock: [2T]

** Advanced Memory Settings **
tRRD: [Auto] 7
tRC: [Auto] 46
tWR: [Auto] 12
tWTR: [Auto] 19
tFAW: [Auto] 35
tREF: [Auto] 110
tRFC: 7.8 us

**System Voltages**
VDroop: Without VDroop
CPU Core: [1.35V]
CPU FSB: [1.325V]
Memory: [1.50V]
nForce SPP: [1.42V]
nForce MCP: [1.50V]
CPU PLL: Auto 1.5V
GTLVREF Lane 0: [Auto]  0 mV
GTLVREF Lane 1: [Auto]  0 mV
GTLVREF Lane 2: [Auto]  0 mV
GTLVREF Lane 3: [Auto]  0 mV

**CPU Configuration**
Limit CPUlD Maxval: Disabled
Intel Speedstep: Disabled
xPPM Mode: [Native]
CPU Thermal Control: [Disabled]
C1E Enhanced Halt State: [Disabled]
Execute Disable Bit: [Disabled]
Virtualization Technology: [Disabled]
CPU Core 0: [Enabled]
CPU Core 1: [Enabled]
CPU Core 2: [Disabled]
CPU Core 3: [Disabled]

Your settings look good to me.  I am glad that we managed to get you where you wanted to be.....fast & stable.  I would test that other GPU in a different PC and see if it is good to go.  If you find that it is, I would install it and go up one increment on the SPP voltage since you will have two GPU's and 8GB of RAM running on it.  Enjoy!!

Yeah, next step is sorting out the GPU situation. Thanks very much for the help Vista, i feel like a owe you a bottle of scotch.

mrzenmaster77

Yeah, next step is sorting out the GPU situation. Thanks very much for the help Vista, i feel like a owe you a bottle of scotch.

You are more than welcome.  A bottle of Johnny Walker Black will do just fine!  If you have further issues, come on back......someone will always be around to assist.

I had really hoped this was resolved but regret to say I think there’s still another kink in my system…
 
    After finding an Intel Burn stable OC (20 passes on “Very High”) I started working on getting my two GTX 280’s working in SLI.  The problem was that my graphics driver installs would only be good for 1-5 (one or two shut-down/boot-up or sleep/hibernation cycles) days before they’d become corrupted and various problems would arise (no 3d graphics on various programs, or even total rainbow crashes when booting to the desktop.  Each time, I’d boot into safe mode, disable the secondary GPU then start the driver uninstall/reinstall process again with a different driver version.  During this process, randomly (~10% of the time) I’d get a bad POST that would take me to the safe boot BIOS.  When this happened I’d check settings to make sure it would boot with the settings described above then save and exit.  It would then reboot just fine and I’d continue working on the driver issue. 
    After 3 attempts I found ManiacVVV’s “Ultimate Nvidia Driver Guide…” (http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?m=1174372&mpage=1) I then followed that to the letter a couple of times with no luck (296.10 WHQL).  Given the weird boot problems I dropped my OC to 1600 FSB x10 Multi (no voltage changes) Burn tested as above, and tried again.   Again the drivers would work for a couple of days then go nuts and again I was seeing odd, though different, behavior. Rebooting when left in hibernation, very long POST’s or failed POST hanging in various spots (EVGA logo screen, eSATA detection etc.) 
    Finally I’ve dropped the OC completely and gone back to “auto” (still leaving the voltages set at OC levels) and I’m still seeing weird POST/Boot issues.  When it boots up it seems to run fine, until the drivers get corrupted again.  I have a brand-new copy of 64 bit Win 7 that I bought when I thought the problem may be software based, but I’m wondering if I need to revisit replacing my PSU or Mobo?  
    Short of grabbing my multi-meter (which I don’t mind doing I’m just not sure where/what to poke and what to look for) is there some way to tell?  Replacing either is more than I’ve done to the inside of a computer in a decade though I’m still planning on building a new rig from the ground up next year…
 
 
Any comments or ideas?

Did you ever try the second GPU in a different PC?  It appears to me to be either the second GPU or the PSU.

Never did try that. Once i found that drivers would cure the problem (at least for a few days) and allow me to run 3D Mark and games, i figured the gpu was OK. I'll try it in another PC and try running just one at a time for an extended duration and report back. Is it possible that the PSU would only manifest problems when both GPU's are drawing power?

mrzenmaster77

Never did try that. Once i found that drivers would cure the problem (at least for a few days) and allow me to run 3D Mark and games, i figured the gpu was OK. I'll try it in another PC and try running just one at a time for an extended duration and report back. Is it possible that the PSU would only manifest problems when both GPU's are drawing power?

Yes, the PSU could manifest problems when having to power two GPU's vice one.  If both cards ran well while gaming for an extended period of time (a few days), then I look more toward the PSU than the GPU's.

Every time i'd get a new set of drivers installed i'd benchmark with 3D Mark, run Burn, then the next night, game for 2-3 hours. Some times i'd get another night of games but by the 3rd time (some times several days after the driver install) i'd either get soup for a desktop and have to kill the power; or at the very least all 3d applications would cause a hard lock.
I'll have to buy a new PSU for my new rig next year so i don't mind getting it now for trouble shooting. I was thinking of a http://www.Newegg.com/Pro...t.aspx?Item=17-151-110 . I figure this would handle to 680's and an i7 some day and cover my current bases as well.