Sleinous

Yep, that's affordable, woul djust have to find something like that in France. Would also need to know exactly what i'm measuring ;)

not sure about best and cheepest way to get them in france but i am sure you can find something for similar price. when you get everything just ask nate what measurements he wants. i am sure they would include the entire mb size along with the mounting holes and the chipset mounting holes and then the heights and locations of the chips and caps and such that need to be milled around. shouldnt be too much work:)

Gratuitous

Sleinous

Yep, that's affordable, woul djust have to find something like that in France. Would also need to know exactly what i'm measuring ;)

not sure about best and cheepest way to get them in france but i am sure you can find something for similar price. when you get everything just ask nate what measurements he wants. i am sure they would include the entire mb size along with the mounting holes and the chipset mounting holes and then the heights and locations of the chips and caps and such that need to be milled around. shouldnt be too much work:)

Also need to work on what it's actually called in french before I can go out and buy one :P

Sleinous

Also need to work on what it's actually called in french before I can go out and buy one :P

lol
 
i guess this might be it: pied à coulisse à cadran,  or pied à coulisse digital

Gratuitous

calipers for this kind of measurments should be acurate to +/- .002 that should be good enough. there is a little skill involved in using them acuratly though as well (although if you are detailed enough to build computers then more than likely you have enough skill)

this would be fine although better quality would be better.
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-digital-caliper-47257.html

and always remeasure the same dimention several times to make sure you didnt have a grain of dust or somthing messing you up:)

You know what worked really well... Putting the board directly on the CNC, using a drill rod or center punch in a drill chuck and guiding it into every hole and writing down what the hole locations are based on the DRO..  You cant screw it up that way. 

Unfortunately I don't have that at my disposition :P
 
Are you planning ongetting an SR-X nateman?
 
Thanks for the translation Gratuitous

I wasn't planning on purchasing one, but I plan on making a block for it one day.

nateman_doo


I wasn't planning on purchasing one, but I plan on making a block for it one day.

 
Ok and i'm assuming most measurements would need to be done before installation of the motherboard else i'm assuming it would be quite hard to measure anything with accuracy?
 

Gratuitous

Sleinous


How expensively good do they need to be?

I was on my way to an SR-X but they went out of stock but hopefully soon!

calipers for this kind of measurments should be acurate to +/- .002 that should be good enough. there is a little skill involved in using them acuratly though as well (although if you are detailed enough to build computers then more than likely you have enough skill)

this would be fine although better quality would be better.
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-digital-caliper-47257.html

and always remeasure the same dimention several times to make sure you didnt have a grain of dust or somthing messing you up:)

 
Accurate to +/- 0.001" (0.03mm)
 
I was looking at UK/EU websites and could only find accurate to 0.02 but then realised you're using inches; i'm using cm/mm
 
What kind of cm/mm accuracy are we looking for here? +- 0.04mm is fairly common here.

Only the holes need to be super accurate. My machine can get withing 0.0005" as far as linear distance, but backlash shreds the accuracy. I would say 0.001 is a reasonable accuracy for my current machine.

The linear rail machine im building will be much more accurate.

To Nateman,
  Couldn't you do an air cooling alternative? It can be a low profile heatsink with the same base as your water cooling block but with heatpipes installed instead, which go up into a high profile heatsink to which a fan can be attached.  I actually think even the stock heatsink could also be used as the lower heatsink. Then, a way must be found to attach heatpipes to it in a way that transfers heat to them all the way up to the upper heatsink.
 
Thanks.

Its possible, but heatpipes arent an option.

What's the point making of another air heatsink, even using the stock's base as the bottom part? The current heatsink has a height that allows it to sit below vid cards, the only possibility is to install a fan on the right part of the sink, but if your card is very long you're screwed...
 
Considering a waterblock, I guess the main block would cover the actual big block+evga logo block above it and have the fittings go where the evga logo is, to avoid blocking the video cards, it'd be similar to the SR-2 waterblock

The point is using a high profile heatsink that can cool more efficiently by having a larger surface area in a way that a larger yet more quiet fan can be installed on it. It does not have to interfere with the installed pci-e cards if it is made in a way to lie in between card spaces or having its higher parts above the ram heatsinks. Of course, it means it can not be installed to go straight up.
 
 

geort45


What's the point making of another air heatsink, even using the stock's base as the bottom part? The current heatsink has a height that allows it to sit below vid cards, the only possibility is to install a fan on the right part of the sink, but if your card is very long you're screwed...

Considering a waterblock, I guess the main block would cover the actual big block+evga logo block above it and have the fittings go where the evga logo is, to avoid blocking the video cards, it'd be similar to the SR-2 waterblock

Humm so you're talking about the SR-2? I thought you were talking about the SRX

Well if anybody is willing to work on this, I guess in principle it can be made for both SR-2 and SR-X (though with slight design differences).
 

geort45


Humm so you're talking about the SR-2? I thought you were talking about the SRX

  I am not an expert but I imagine a high profile heatsink can still be effective  without heatpipes if a large fan can be attached to it. Of course, it has to be made in a way not to interfere with the installed cards.
 
 
 
 

nateman_doo


Its possible, but heatpipes arent an option.

1/2" is the max height. It can be made, but it will cost, because i have considerable milling to make 1/16th fins and extrudes for multiple fans.

Thanks for the reply.  I am now considering chipset coolers with heatpipes. Thermalright makes some that may work on SR-2.

I was thinking a solid block, with 1/16" fins, and multiple fans.  Should prove MUCH more effective then the factory heatsink.

Hours to machine, but I can make it happen.  Let me know if you want to make it happen. 

How would you machine the fins? If you'd use a router I guess as the fins get taller with every pass, wouldn't they sometime "break" and get carried away by the router bit if they're too thin?

I would use a 1/16" bit, to extrude material.  Taking a 1/4" thick plate, and extrude the material in between the fins. Pass, after pass, after pass, after pass...
 
There are better ways of doing fins, but my machine is limited. 
 
I may just try this one day for fun.  The question is how many fans to use, and what arrangement.  I have a few ideas rolling around in the head, but if no one wants it, thats where the ideas stay. 

Going to organize another batch of SR2 blocks here shortly.  Post, or send me a PM.

loveha


Every time I come and look at this thread I can't stop staring at the block for a good minute. Now you just need to figure out how to put
nateman_doo
EVGA Classified SR-2
on top of the block so when people see it they know who made that beauty.

Took me a year, but I almost have a logo :)
 
Necroposting at its finest.  Today marks the 1 year (and a month) anniversary of the 1st block made. :P 

nateman_doo

loveha


Every time I come and look at this thread I can't stop staring at the block for a good minute. Now you just need to figure out how to put
nateman_doo
EVGA Classified SR-2
on top of the block so when people see it they know who made that beauty.

Took me a year, but I almost have a logo :)

Necroposting at its finest.  Today marks the 1 year (and a month) anniversary of the 1st block made. :P 

 
Admires my block :) yea! great job Nate!

You should post a picture of it.  (after you clean off the dust )

nateman_doo


You should post a picture of it.  (after you clean off the dust )

+1 to this

radiantdragoon87

Admires my block :) yea! great job Nate!

Atleast I'm not the only one.

There are a few people, but RD87 has the original block.  Permatex and all.

nateman_doo

There are a few people, but RD87 has the original block.  Permatex and all.

Ya, well don't I have the first with a logo machined out? If not I might cry.

radiantdragoon87

nateman_doo

loveha


Every time I come and look at this thread I can't stop staring at the block for a good minute. Now you just need to figure out how to put
nateman_doo
EVGA Classified SR-2
on top of the block so when people see it they know who made that beauty.

Took me a year, but I almost have a logo :)

Necroposting at its finest.  Today marks the 1 year (and a month) anniversary of the 1st block made. :P 

Admires my block :) yea! great job Nate!

Forgot all about that post lol.

Send it back, and I will put a logo on it :)